Bkd tandem pump failure

Jump to content. You currently have javascript disabled. Several functions may not work. Please re-enable javascript to access full functionality. Posted 11 November - AM. I've been noticing a smell of Diesel form my car and also had a bit of a slow starting problem ie turning over more than yu would expect first thing in the morning and then lumpy running for 30 secs or so. Had a proper look today for the first time and it seems to be coming from the bottom of the Tandem pump. It's quite difficult to see around all the pipes etc in this area but the area of engine block just above where the engine and bellhousing meet is very wet with fuel and whenever i dry it off within a few secs more fuel runs down over it.

I have done a search on the site here and although it doesn't seem to be a common problem a few people have experienced it and there was also a recall but on newer cars than mine AJM. Does anyone have any info on the job, is it a replacement job or can it be repaired? Can it be repaired on the car or will it need to come off and if so how easy is this to do? I read in one post it may just be the gasket but I would have thought that if there was a leak inside the pump replacing the gasket would not necessarily be the answer.

Wallace[ ]. Posted 17 November - PM.

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Failed tandem pump can cause oil to mix with fuel

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Skoda Octavia tandem pump fault

Tandem pump replacement Bedders Feb 19, Reading on here either injector seals or tandem pump. Torqued as per manual. Any ideas? And whilst I'm at it who designed that bottom bolt? BeddersFeb 19, Which one is the tandem pump?

SayamFeb 19, Whilst we are at it It was bound to fail at some point. Really putting me off getting another German car. Compared to my last two Subarus they really are garbage! It's over designed cheap tack junk. I beg to differ! It even had to have the injectors changed under recall as the damn things were trying to switch the engine off at fault status. The things are made out of chocolate!

I'm at my wits end with the thing it's junk! Last edited: Feb 19, Some people have a lucky problem free Audi for years and some don't.

Been lucky with the 3 I've had so for, unfortunately you have not. As for the leak, something very simple has failed, just buy a new gasket, a good clean up of the surfaces and try again. Maybe a dressing of Hermatite Red will help, diesel is harder to seal than oil or coolant.Original Poster. Tame Technician. Search My Stuff What's New 3 12 24 AntJC Original Poster posts months.

Tandem pump Leaking!

Hi TT, I've followed may threads on here, and other forums regarding the rough idle issues with he 2. Having just bought a 81K A3 2. Whipped out the old fuel filter, that was a black a coal and drained out the contents of the fuel filter housing into a clean jar. Sure enough the derv was not the colour as expected.

Turned out to be a very dark brown and I'm sure that you can see the minute specks of oil trace in there. Also cleaned a nice black film coating off the insides of the filter housing as well.

So armed with this initial prognosis, its looks like new injector seals, lift pump and a good clean out of the fuel tank are in order.

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If so are there any guides on the net or how too that you could point me at. Failing that can I purchase the official VAG tech guide for replacing these for some where?? Regards Antony. I wouldnt worry about that to be honest. A cambelt change is due every 75, miles or 5 years.

So the chances are that it will have recently had the cambelt changed and the fuelling is set to low. This is adjusted by simply turning the exhaust cam to the right VERY slightly. Ideally you should be reading the measured value block as to what the fuelling is exactly at and adjusting accordingly.

To be honest your best off taking it to the dealers and getting it done properly for the sake of 50 quid! Thanks for your suggestion. It had a cam belt last week, and had lumpy hot idle before. I don't think that cam timing would solve this: or this though?? Tame Technician 2, posts months. The real trouble with the 2. I'd strongly recomend having the injectors ultrasonically cleaned if you are going to take them out.

But even then, they do often still have a bit of a rough idle. But the oil in the fuel is almost certainly the fault of the injector seals. A But I must add a faulty tandem pump internal leak can do the same thing. I couldnt find a pic of an audi 2. On the audi injector the two seals are lower down, one is plain black and one has white flashes. It is really important that go one the right way round, so change the seals on one injector at a time, so there is always at least one built up correctly to look at if you cant remember.

Strickly speaking it isnt really a DIY job as the are a number of special tools required, but I have done a few sets on my drive with only a tiny torque rench needs to measure 3Nm and normal hand tools. I dont know where you will find the instructions, I can give you a basic idea of whats involve but not the full prcudure, so you can decide if your up to it.

Top cam belt cover off, - two clips Cam cover off, - 10 or so T30's Rocker shaft off one used strech bolts x 5 - Mutilspline tool 10 I think, maybe Injector harness unbolt retaining braket and disconnect injectors, - 5mm ball-allen Remove injector bolts 2 for each injector one use strech bolts x8 - Mutilspline very small maybe 6 or 8.

Should use a special tool here but a carefull lever with a pry bar under the unit injector spring top coil and the injectors should pop out. Replace the seals and unit injector top contact spacer, make sure everything is in the right place.

Again should use a special tool here, but the homey way is drop each injector in its hole, very loosly put the new injector bolts in, then tap the top of the injector with a socket until it pushes into position inside the head. If you didnt press the injector fully down the bolts will snap.Forums New posts Search forums.

Media New media New comments Search media. Resources Latest reviews Search resources. Members Current visitors New profile posts Search profile posts. Log in Register. Search titles only. Search Advanced search…. New posts. Search forums. Log in. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Failed tandem pump can cause oil to mix with fuel. Thread starter kpiazzisi Start date Mar 20, It's in the VW manual, but no one that I have asked so far has been able to substainiate weather or not a failed tandem pump will cause oil and fuel to mix.

Most of the problems were my fault. I know my tandem pump has failed.

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I have been dealing with it, and so far have not ponyied up the bucks for a new pump. I have been having a seperate issue, which is intermitient white smoke. I tried almost everything to resolve the white smoke issue and have several posts on here asking for help troubleshooting the smoke issue. One thing I noticed is that an oil change seems to resolve the smoke issue. Yesturday when I drained the oil, I have over 5 quarts in the drain pan.

I believe I only put in 4 quarts when I changed the oil a couple of months ago. In my opinion, I belive fuel is mixing with the oil just like it states in the VW manual. When leaking it is possible for the fuel to mix with the oil, which may cause the engine to fail.

Last edited: Mar 20, VWBeamer Veteran Member. I believe just seals can be replaced on the IIRC, anyway it's certain that fuel in the oil will cause damage to the engine, the PD motor is already hard on cams. Not to replace or repair the pump seams penny wise, dollar foolish. Henrick Top Post Dawg. How can I know my TP is faulty and probably leaking fuel into oil?

What symptoms to watch for? Ol'Rattler Top Post Dawg. To the OP, you got the title backwards.An internal combustion engine running on unleaded gasoline builds up a tremendous amount of pressure inside the enclosed crankcase. This pressure is used to power multiple belts and pulleys ranging from alternators to AC units, but is released thanks to the use of a vacuum pump.

A diesel engine on the other hand relies on vacuum pumps to provide power for other systems, most notably the brake system and in many cases, the air conditioning system. The vacuum pump operates continuously as each cylinder inside the engine continues to fire. When the vacuum pump goes bad or fails entirely, it can significantly impact the overall performance and operation of a vehicle.

Since the vacuum pump is always in use, the likelihood of experiencing some sort of mechanical failure or entire breakage is more likely on diesel engines that utilize this component. The most common cause of vacuum pump failure occurs due to broken belts, electrical problems inside the unit, or vacuum hoses that fail. On a gasoline powered vehicle, the vacuum pump tends to impact the emissions or exhaust system; however, if not properly maintained, it can cause significant damage to cylinder head components.

The pump operates constantly if the engine is on, so wear and tear will eventually cause it to fail. Here are some common symptoms that hint towards having a bad vacuum pump for gasoline and diesel applications. If you listen very carefully, sometimes you can hear a "hiss" sound that is the signal of a vacuum leak. However, the most common way to notice this is when the engine loses fuel efficiency. The reason for this is due to the fact that vehicle exhaust is delayed on exiting the combustion chamber.

When there is a buildup of burnt fuel, the new fuel burns less efficiency. This condition will also reduce engine performance; but it really depends on the manufacture and use of the vacuum pump.

If you notice that you have poor fuel efficiency — in both gasoline and diesel engines, have your local ASE certified mechanic inspect your vacuum pump, hoses, and engine for any vacuum leaks. This symptom is common with diesel engines that use a vacuum pump booster to help improve brake performance. It's especially common on larger diesel semi-trucks and dual-tire configured rear-wheel drive trucks. When the pump begins to fail, it produces less suction which helps to provide pressure to the brake master cylinder and provides additional pressure inside the brake lines.

Eventually the lack of pressure in the brake system works its way up to the pedal. If there is a lot of pressure, the pedal will be solid, yet very forgiving.

When vacuum pressure is low, the pedal is rough and very difficult to press down and engage the brakes. When you recognize this warning sign, don't wait to have this item fixed or examined by a professional mechanic. Have a certified diesel mechanic fix this issue as soon as possible. Most vacuum pumps are located on the left or right side of the engine, typically closer to the brake master cylinder on diesel vehicles. The vacuum pump requires oil to maintain proper lubrication and to reduce internal temperature due to its frequent use.

If you notice oil is dripping from the left or right side of your engine, it may be coming from the vacuum pump.Serviced my Octavia today, everything was OK until I was getting rid of the old oil.

I realised I had more than I had put back in, not massively more, but definitely more. At some point in the past some halfwit appears to have tried to top the oil up with a garden sprinkler, it went everywhere and the foam under the engine cover has a lot of oil in it. Consequently there is quite a bit of oil all over the place. But I have noticed that there is more oil on the left hand side of the engine viewed from inside the car.

With a bit more rooting around there appears to be a lot of oil around the tandem pump, both the cover seal and the seal between the pump and the engine block. Consequently I beginning to think that the tandem pump is the cause of both the oil leak and increased oil level. I have cleaned up the tandem pump as best I can and I will keep and eye on it to see if more oil appears. I have done some searching and injector seals are mentioned but mainly on the PD engines as a possible cause of increasing oil level but I am leaning towards the tandem pump as the problem.

Any thoughts? I had same on my car when I bought it - see report from lab. There was 7. Or injectors might be damaged and fuel lines leaking fuel, which is returning back via oil ways from camshaft lubrication.

Tandem pump replacement

I also had major oil leak because some idiot removed engine head cover and didn't tighten bolts or annual inspection carried by German service was yet another example of stamp business they don't do anything on car, stamt the log book and happily charge you common among authorised services.

No idea how diesel could get into oil. DPF regen is just similar to anti-lag system. In my case, all stabilised after the oil change.

I had a look at the fuel filter yesterday and there was no obvious sign of oil. It is due a change in 10k miles and didn't look any dirtier than I would have expected. Having done a bit more rooting around the engine bay I am thinking my oil leak is from the back of the rocker cover.

I'm going to get a new gasket and take it off and have a look. There is not much oil leaking, the undertay is not really oily, the only obvious fresh oil is on the back of the block and the dogbone mount.

Problem is that there is some much stuff at the back of the engine bay it's hard to see anything. Since I cleaned off the tandem pump it has stayed clean, but I could only easily clean the front of it. When I take the rocker cover off I will remove the airbox too so that I can see more. I have heard of DPF problems on other makes where extra fuel is injected for the DPF regen and if the regen is interrupted then it effectively floods the cylinder and makes its way down the bores into the sump.

There is spec of my car. Head cover gasket is common cause I guess.A company's rating is calculated using a mathematical algorithm that evaluates the information in your profile. The algorithm parameters are: users' rating, number of resolved issues, number of company's responses etc.

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The algorithm is subject to change in future. Tandem Diabetes Care was first mentioned on PissedConsumer on Jan 21, and since then this brand received 25 reviews. The overall rating of the company is 2. Review authors value the most Insurance Plans Acceptance. The price level of this organization is medium according to consumer reviews. This review is from a real person who provided valid contact information and hasn't been caught misusing, spamming or abusing our website.

Check our FAQ. User's recommendation: Educate yourself to the best of your ability to reduce your dependence on Tech Servicep. For more information about PissedConsumer check out our Blog article. My tandem G6 became damaged due to a bleeding issue and was seeking a replacement one as I have none spare to be expedited to me if at all possible?

Tandem has admitted Yo me that they are having issues. If they believe they have issues now I was a Medtronic user for 16 years and switched to Tandem about 2 months ago because of the Dexcomm G6 sensors which are compatible with the Tandem pumps. As an experienced pump user here are my takes between the 2 companies. Medtronic answers the phone every time. Tandem occasionally but usually calls back in a couple of hours too long.

Medtronic easier to change insulin cartridge. Tandem stick the syringe in that tiny filling location. Difficult for the elderly. Tandem replaces defective supplies instantly including Dexcomm sensors. Medtronic you must return defective supplies first inefficient. Tandem Diabetes Care Reviews and Complaints A company's rating is calculated using a mathematical algorithm that evaluates the information in your profile.

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View full Tandem Diabetes Care overview. Rating Details 21 rated reviews.

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